tallinn - pagan coffee
A chilly winds kick up as we move further north, the seasons are all out of order as we have moved from spring to winter and back again.
Now in Tallinn, Estonia, my first impression is unassuming - yet it beckons. A deep-rooted energy lives here and we’re about to find out why.
With the sun continuing to smile upon us, we trade the scheduled coach ride into town for a meandering stroll. Smells of sticky poplar buds laced with birdsong dance around me as the sun warms my back. This pulls in far-reaching memories that bring delicious shivers of anticipation, and relief, of warmer weather.
As we wander further, another aroma joins in, the curls of smell reveal a coffee festival. Two floors of artisanal roasters, tastings, and coffee art. I procure a cup post-haste. We continue on our way as I fill myself with delicious warm sips.
Distant turrets reach skyward, making way-finding easy. The Margaret-wall surrounding the old town of Tallinn comes into view and we cross over through the Great Coastal Gate. Beside is a tower lovingly known as Fat Margaret.
I’ve been to many ancient-walled cities, but this one is like none I’ve felt before. Insignia across buildings seem to carry a message, and quiet secrets sit waiting for the keen observer. There is an undercurrent here.
The afternoon turns chilly and we seek out a warm hiatus. The Schlossle Hotel seems to know what we are in need of and reveals itself in a friendly pastel manner. Stepping through the doors is like walking into a fairytale cottage. The charming lobby with a crested fireplace waits for us with flames dancing across birch wood. This space summons more time, and we stay for lunch - though this feels known before we decide.
Being the only guests for today’s lunch, we are delighted to be led to a private dining area with ancient domed ceilings and elegant decor. Another fire is lit, and we select a few dishes to enjoy. Each one is beautifully crafted with stunning flavour and playful presentation. Time stops, and once this location is satisfied, we spill out thoroughly warmed. I don’t look back as we leave - this location might not actually be there if I do.
Back on ship, we discover the whispers we feel . Deep and ancient pagan roots, Maasuk ( land faith ) and Estonian Paganism is very strong here. Sorry, Christianity, move over.
Further discovery reveals land faith comes from inside each of us. From the land on which we live and the daily sacred encounters experienced. It is breathed in the air and drunk in water. No founder or prophet needs to arrive to announce this truth, no scriptures required to proclaim the right way to live. It all begins by paying attention; if you listen, you can hear it. The land speaks similar things no matter where we live. This belief is filled with magical folk tales. The crimes of humans resonate in nature — lakes fly away to punish greedy villagers, or forests wander off in the night, never to return. Trees demand the respect of a tipped hat, and holes in the ground must be fed with coins.
We both know we will return here, for there is so much to return to.
