copenhagen - delicious hygge at every turn
The architecture hits you first, from historical to futuristic, Copenhagen has a skyline like no other. This is a playground for the bold and creative. From our ship, I recognize Copen Hill, a waste-to-energy plant turned into a multi-purpose recreation hub of fun. Brilliant design!
Today, a double-decker bus collects us. We run upstairs like two kids and secure the front seats. A long stroll and a really good cup of coffee are top of mind! I miss really good coffee, and have a feeling Copenhagen will deliver.
Arriving in the centre, our happy driver leaps out and halts bike traffic to be sure there are no collisions as we exit - we all spill out unscathed.
There is so much to take in, and everything is aesthetically beautiful, including the people who live here.
From the rooftops, extraordinary sculptures gaze down upon the streets. A feeling of whimsy is present as unicorns, dragons, and a muse collective watch over us - frozen in stone.
We stroll among joyful canal buildings as vintage sailboats loiter in the waterways. Sculptures are generously scattered throughout, and we follow a few like petrified wisps until Cafe No. 11 reveals itself; time for a warm intermission. The coffee here is blissful, and we lounge for a while.
Continuing through the city, we follow streets bathed in sunshine. Massive cement bowls are filled with shocks of yellow from spring, and birds chase each other through blossom-filled branches. The energy here is one of ease and contentment, it’s a pleasure to be in.
Copenhagen is strewn with Michelin stars, and tonight, I have booked us in under the two stars of Kadeau. Their story intrigues me, and we are about to journey through 15 courses of delicious creativity. There is just enough time to return to the ship for a disguise change, then head back out.
Dropped off in front of 10B, we find an unremarkable door. Some sleuthing is required to gain entrance. A small plaque with a doorbell catches my eye, and I push the button. The door opens, and entrance is granted only after our name is found. I love this!
We are led into a stunning and cozy kitchen crafted from thick wood and brick. Warm lighting and mouthwatering aromas dance together. The dining space is intimate and elegant, with windows offering views into a nature-filled courtyard.
Kadeau works from two seasons, growing and preserving. We have arrived at the end of preservation season. All things pickled, smoked, cured, and dehydrated from last summer’s local harvest will be enjoyed. Since no citrus fruit grows in Denmark, because of the cold climate, ants are used to provide acidity. Yes - ants. I’m ready.
We begin with last summer’s tomatoes preserved in wildly unique ways, followed by razor clam with fig, then scallop and squid toast with whole ants for acidity. All is beyond delicious, and I swear there are tastes beyond the usual 5 that my tongue has just experienced. I quickly ask Trevor to check my teeth for any ant remnants and discreetly rinse my mouth with wine.
The courses continue, pickled leaves from walnut and cherry trees so stunning I have to close my eyes as the flavours transport me. Then on to the most unique mushrooms bathing in a broth of deliciousness that I must resist climbing into the bowl.
Each course has a story, as does the manifold of sous-chefs who present the dishes. Eight courses in, and this dining experience is unmatched. There is still more to come!
We finish with mussel ice cream folded around plums and conifers that change the way I consider dessert. All is crowned with a warm walnut pie paired with a Premier Cru Sauternes from Bordeaux. A mic drop moment!
Five hours later, our tummies are full and taste buds in awe from the playing of flavours. It’s nearly midnight, and we’ve had a generous wine pairing. Our host is gracious and has already procured a ride back to the ship for us.
I sleep deeply, and my dreams are wild. Upon waking, I try to remember how we got back, as I don’t remember returning home, also - what time is it? We both rub our eyes and sit up, shocked at the hour. The possibility of a post-meal high from all the unique ingredients becomes the topic of the morning. Both of us had such strange dreams! Who needs recreational substances when you have Micheline Star food?
Mostly awake, we head out for some fresh air and a strong cup of coffee. The weather is beautiful, and the celestial beings of weather continue to smile upon us! In three months, we’ve experienced only a handful of rainy days.
With our RAS tuned into coffee, a house with no name finds us. It’s filled with old tables, each with a lit candle. Wonderful coffee and delicious banana bread are served with the warmth of a hug. There is a term here, ‘hygge' ( hue-gah ), meaning comfort or the deep feeling of contentment of being in the moment. This is most definitely a delicious ‘hygge’ hug of a moment.
Over these two days, we have found this city is as enchanting as the stories Hans Christian Andersen penned here. There are many delicious and ‘hygge’ experiences waiting for us upon our return.
Tak!
