oslo - norwegian hedonism
Sailing down this first fjord, Trevor decides we should wake at 4 AM to watch the sunrise. Through bleary eyes, it does look stunning. These deep waters are so still that the only ripple emanates from our ship. Tiny Norwegian homes dot across small islands in reds and yellows, in a storybook fashion.
With our winter parkas overtop of housecoats and sunglasses on, yes, very stylish, we step out onto our veranda to greet the day. The air is fresh and brisk as the sun warms all it touches. The aroma of toast and bacon becomes more present - breakfast is here!
With mimosas in hand, we cheers to the stunning architecture of the Opera House as the ship docks. Ant-sized humans are peppered over angled pathways of this house that eventually spill into the harbour.
Floating saunas warmed by firewood sit like small towns strung together over the edges of the water. Other saunas are motorized cubes carrying passengers along the fjord. Smells of birch fire mingle with the cool air, and yelps from warm humans who have plunged into cold water can be heard.
Trevor is eager to get his boots on the ground as his biological father is from this land. We find a coffee house to sit and people watch while sipping a delicious brew. As humans criss-cross by, there is no question that Norway is in Trevor’s DNA. Similar piercing blue eyes and facial features make him blend right in. I verbally point out possible cousins.
Continuing deeper into Oslo, we discover art and architecture dance with open spaces and nature. The ancient and massive trees of Slottsparken on palace grounds offer beautiful connection in nature.
Our touchstone for the day is the Grand Oslo Hotel, I have secured lunch reservations at Palmen’s. There is a hedonistic feel here and our other 5 senses catch up as the afternoon expands.
This hotel is draped in rich textures and wears art like fine jewelry.
We take a seat in the lobby bar for a sip under a neon tribute to Munch’s ‘The Scream.’ The grand dining hall where we will lunch sits under a massive glass roof. Suspended above is a stunning chandelier brought into reality by Welsh artist Cerith Wyn Evens. After working with Venetian glass blowers, he connected this creation to a computer that reads music, resulting in a suspended glass sculpture that pulses light to a melody.
My eyes take in the elegant velvet settees and marble walls when Trevor asks me, ‘In that series of paintings, is that a woman masturbating?’ She is - and there is much more. In total, there are 36 paintings by Vanessa Baird on topics not spoken of in public. The juxtaposition of this luxurious setting with erotic and unique paintings is quite striking.
This afternoon brings a full house. We order lunch while observing the wide-eyed reactions of guests whose attention finally arrives at this wall of art. I am quietly impressed with Oslo and how bold this culture is. On our way back to the ship, we are animated in conversation over the contrast of puritan vs. broad-minded countries. How refreshing it is to be in cultures that embrace all.
Curious, I look up further artworks in Oslo and discover a Garden of Sculptures just up the hill from us. They range from macabre to interpretive and are scattered throughout a forest. The most beautiful is of a man on his knees in front of a woman performing cunnilingus. Sculpted in a classical style, this could be in the Musée d’Orsay.
Though only a short visit on this tapas-style tour of the world, we have found Oslo to be fantastically free. From architecture to sauna culture and coffee to unleashed art, the humans here are relaxed and true.
Oslo is not finished with what it has to share. At 10 PM, I head up top to watch us depart. Surveying the night skyline, I notice two souls in a small rowboat near our ship, both in long black cloaks. Great amounts of smoke emanate from the two figures in the boat, and it looks as if a small fire is present at the bow. Both shrouded in smoke, one stands tall, the other rows with a giant oar.
Is anyone else seeing this?? Is this a photo session or a druidic ritual?
Either way, Oslo, you carry deep magic.
