the seine, palace of versailles & paris - a trinity in france
It all begins with a mysterious envelope sealed with a circle of red. An invitation to a rare and private party at the Palace of Versailles - this is not to be missed! We RSVP and drift off dreaming of macarons and minuets.
Heading towards Rouen, we follow the serpentine river Seine at a snail’s pace. With bracing weather, winter jackets make an appearance for the first time in three months. Snug and warm, we watch the shores dotted in celebration of spring with an explosion of leaves and blossoms. Willow vines relax into the river as wild swans float between the forlorn twigs. It feels as if we have been painted into a Parisian masterpiece hanging on the wall of the Louvre.
Regal manors that have seen centuries sit proudly, nestled in acres of orchards. Cows and horses curiously lift their heads from grazing to investigate what our ship is, and if they might want to join us. A few homes containing families spill out with arms waving, even family dogs join in with wagging tails. It’s a pleasure to return the excitement!
Both of us are in joyful disbelief as we sail down the Seine aboard this ship on a Parisian spring day.
Pulling into the port of Rouen, we savour the silence of the pool deck and enjoy a spa moment in the cool air. Not a soul around. There is no rush as tonight we pack for an opulent evening in Versailles, followed by a decadent afternoon in Paris.
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A handful of luxury coaches arrive and fill with guests. Cases are swallowed into the belly of each bus, and we depart through fields of yellow Colza flowers. Our transport has an overenthusiastic guide who has been speaking for over 20 minutes without taking a breath. Two guests finally break through and request the luxury of silence we are all craving. Trevor and I turn to give them our gratitude in the form of many thumbs up.
The windows play out spring meadows amidst sprawling French countrysides while big fluffy clouds collect in the blue - everyone exhales.
A relaxed slice of time later and The Dolce comes into view. This quiet manor just outside of Versailles has been selected as our respite between festivities. Here, nature intermingles with art. A most unique sculpture of vintage cars encased in cement welcomes guests at the entrance. Is this perhaps a creative warning to any who park carelessly?
Everyone excitedly finds their suite and waves out open windows to familiar faces. Once settled, a welcome reception awaits with refreshments, we are shocked to find no champagne greeting our arrival. The only remedy is to locate the spot where some can be procured - and we do. On our way out, we point other forlorn guests in the direction of where to imbibe. Their smiles return.
Getting ready in haste, we dash out to the last coach for the drive over. The Palace of Versailles stands tipped in gold and radiant in the setting sun. Her gates stand open and proud to receive guests, we enter for a night of majesty.
This Palace, which is usually heaving with humans, is nearly empty. Powdered wigs, puffy pants, and frocks intermingle with our current timeline, making one question the current era.
Massive paintings and opulent bedrooms with soaring canopies guide all towards the Hall of Mirrors. Here, we encounter four long dining tables spilling over with stunning spring florals. Peonies, tea roses, and hydrangea mingle among spring greenery in an artistic manner. Fresh fruit is displayed like a still life ready to be painted. The aroma of a feast dances in the air as the hum of conversation consorts with the cello.
Tonight, table settings are fit for a queen as there are many present. Gowns of every flavour drip in sequins, beads, satin, feathers, and lace. We all giggle, giving and receiving compliments.
With everyone seated, the meal commences. Each course is a work of art, engaging all the senses in unison. A narrative of history watches us from paintings as we dine.
The evening culminates with dessert and a stunning performance by soprano singer Axelle Saint-Cirel. She commands this moment, and the room is nearly breathless. Three stunning performances later, the hall erupts into applause, and we slowly retrace our steps as we gaze upon an empty and darkly lit palace. One can feel the imprint of the past in these quiet moments. What liaisons might have happened here, at this hour, a few millennia ago?
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This morning, everyone moves a bit slower than usual. We have all indulged, with more to come as an afternoon in Paris is on the agenda. Espresso, but make it a double, along with croissants and mimosas, revive us all.
With all Paris-bound on board, the guide starts a very lengthy one-sided conversation. We hear about Parisian business school, local haircuts, and how Louis XIV had his leg cut off, ‘and he screamed and he screamed…’ After 15 minutes, we once again ask for silence. It was an indulgent night, and no one has the capacity. Sorry Louis!
Eyes close, and before we realize, the Eiffel Tower comes into view. It is wonderful to be back in Paris, and the Arc de Triomphe looks as impressive as ever as we pass to drive down the champs-élysées. All aboard are released into the wild with four hours available. Not nearly enough time for selecting a new Saint Laurent bag. The best use of time is relaxing at the Ritz for a lengthy lunch. Inside is a stunning tribute to Parisian elegance.
We are seated in Bar Vendôme and nestle into the beauty of this space. Until - a jarring video call on speaker phone breaks the moment. With such a prestigious location in the heart of Paris, we are shocked and ask for this to stop at once. Patrons enter in jeans and hoodies, several on speaker phone. The juxtaposition in this beautiful setting is frightful. Is this the world now?
The visit to Paris proves to be eye-opening, and a longer stay at a later date remains a question mark. A quiet coach back to our ship leaves time to digest these past two days.
Back aboard and cozy in housecoats, we enjoy bowls of bolognese and a glass of bordeaux as we journey back up the Seine. The sun descends, reflecting on windows like facets of a diamond. The perfect finale to this morsel of a grand adventure.
Now, to be ready for the electric and subversive energy of Amsterdam.
